Self-emulsifying polyol stearates were introduced from

The 1930s; the testers for these were originally patented under

Telgin. This marked something of a distillatory renaissance:

Now all materials were heated and mixed together, then poured

Into containers –this revolutionised the process of vanishing

Cream manufacture, making it considerably simpler (de Navarre,

1975). Creams were supremely softer than the traditional stearates

But unfortunately often lost their pearly sheen. Nevertheless,

Vanishing Creams had a non-greasy advantage which rendered

Them eminently suitable for daytime use by women with oily skin.

As well as allowing powder to stay intact on the face, they

Were also advertised as protecting the skin from ‘chapping

Winds’ and ‘sooty breezes’. The presence of a humectant

Was used as the basis for claims that they helped reduce loss

Of moisture from dry skin… And then there was Hazeline Snow:

Doubtless there were certain coteries who used make-up liberally

But it certainly wasn’t common, and the jars and flasks contained

Eau-de-cologne as opposed to true scent, while cold cream was

Used as a broad lubricant. Chapped hands carried glycerine.

The chic Parisians were pioneers of foundation medium –dashingly

Many milky English wives purchased the dinky tubes of Pond’s

Erasmic Vanishing Cream, and shared them out among their friends

Like scarce and illicit indulgences. This marked a true advance

In cosmetics: the powder stuck to one’s nose so one needn’t squint

Downwards with one eye to check if it had acquired that type

Of uncomely polished look, so frowned-upon, a proboscis taboo…